ZOrbiter v2 now supports Revo Six, Revo Rigid (Voron), E3D V6, Dragon HF, Dragon HF Rigid Mount
Please read carefully and do not miss the steps of the tutorial and always read the step description. ZOrbiter v2.0 is very similar to its predecessor. Robert, who is the designer of Orbiter Motors did some improvements with the help of the feedback collected from the community and released v2.0 so did I. Please visit Orbiter Projects for more information about Orbiter development.
The new Orbiter v2 Motor approx. 5mm shorter than v1.5 and slightly lighter. And there are some advantages when printing with soft filaments such as TPU. Please check the Orbiter Projects website for the differences between Orbiter v1.5 and v2.0.
You can download the ZOrbiter Firmware here.
Note: Please print the filament sensor lever first and check if your magnet fits in the slot. It shouldn’t be loose. There are two filament sensor levers in the STL repo. One has a 2mm slot, other has a 1.93mm slot for the magnets.
Screws and nuts:
10 x M3x10
6 x M3 Hex Nut
2 x M3x35
11 x Square Nut
1 x M3x25
3 x M3x14
3 x M3x22
Remove the Bowden coupler ring and take out the Bowden coupler.
Insert a square nut on the extruder cover for the front fan first. Then insert the square nuts on the sides and place the hotend before assembling the motor. Use M3x8mm socket cap screws to mount the Orbiter motor in its place by inserting the PTFE to the bottom metal hole of the motor assembly. 38.5 PTFE is for E3D V6 Hotend. (PTFE is 26mm for REVO 6, 29mm for Revo Voron)
Insert the magnets on the Filament Lever and Extruder body. Magnets should repel each other. Insert the Square nut on top of the body for FS Cover Screw. There are two different Filament Sensor Lever files for different magnet thicknesses. One for 2mm magnets the other is for 1.85~
Insert M3 hex nuts to their places at the back of the X carriage and Extruder Body. You can use an M3 screw to place and push them more easily.
First, pass the filament sensor cable through the X Carriage canal. Insert the square nuts and place the front cover on the extruder body. Use M3x25 screw to assemble and fasten X Carriage, Body and front cover parts together. Fasten the M3x10 screw to secure the X carriage on the extruder body.
Secure the bottom part of the extruder body with two m3 x 10 screws in front. Insert the M3 Square Nut and the M3 x 10 screw to prepare for the PINDA.
Place the motor assembly with hotend into its place at a right angle and tighten M3 x 35 screws. Ensure the hot end is positioned at a right angle while tightening.
Insert a square nut into the fan shroud and put it into its place before assembling the fan. And also pass the motor cable behind the jut on the extruder cover and then rearward through the gap above the fan socket. keep the fan cable rearward.
Use M3 x 10 screw to mount the print fan arm. Inser two M3 Hex nuts to the holes seen on the picture to be able to mount the print fan.
Place the print fan as seen in the picture and fix it with two M3 x 22 Screws. Do not overtighten the screws cause you may damage the 5015 fan holes.
Insert the steel ball into the housing and insert the 12mm PTFE into the slot underneath. Put it into its place however it is going to be stuck in the middle due to Filament Sensor Lever. Do not push further.
Use a small screwdriver or a scriber and pull the filament sensor lever from the pocket shown to push the ball holder down and make it flush with the top
Mount the Filament Sensor with an M2 x 8 screw. You can use stock Prusa Filament Sensor as well.
Lastly, put the filament sensor cover on top and use an M3 x 10 screw to fix it. For cable management and 3D printer assembly please refer to your printer build manual.
We will keep you updated